The Amazing Amazon Adventure - Day 5

Laying in bed my mind turned to packing-up and heading home.  I admit I was a bit ready to be done with the "primitive living" and happy to get back to my bed without mosquito netting, a warm shower and food I truly enjoy.

With a pile of clothes in hand I bent down to put them in my suitcase only to discover that termites had found their way into our cabin and built mud mounds all over the suitcases.  Fortunately everyone's suitcase was closed so the damage was only done to the outside.  I dragged mine outside and slammed it against the walkway several times trying dislodge the bugs that were crawling all over the outside and to break off their new homes.  I was amazed at the work these little bugs could do in one night.  Large homes were built all over.  Getting rid of the mud and bugs I packed up and had some breakfast.
We got into the boat for our last journey down the river.  Four white herons led our way through the maze of waterways.  Flying ahead, waiting for us in trees then lifting off with graceful flight to continue leading us.

The kids, a bit dehydrated, laid down in the boat.  I sat in the front saying "goodbye" to the birds and dolphins.  The breeze kept me cool.  We went down a little waterway that was a "shortcut" on the river.   The waterway which would be dried up within a week saved us an hour on our journey.

We stopped in a modern town along the river in Brazil.  The town was built on stilts to protect it from the flooding.  Andrew stayed behind, not feeling well.  We ordered some lunch.  I got the wild game suggested by our guide.  A thick, fatty skin gave the meat a savory flavor.  I pulled off another piece then "crunch".  Thinking I had bitten into a piece of bone I spit it into my hand.  A bullet.  Truly organic meat probably caught earlier that morning!

We returned to the boat to find Andrew puking over the edge.  After 6 hours traveling down rivers we landed in Laticia, got a taxi back to the airport, got our very weary selves on the plane and said "goodbye" to the Amazon.

I wouldn't trade this adventure for a more plush trip.  To experience the Amazon in the raw and understand what it means to survive in this place was priceless.  It is one thing to watch a documentary on Discovery Channel and quiet another to tramp through the thick mud, jump in the river and grab a cayman, take a cold shower, live without electricity, watch a breathtaking sunset while being hit by jumping fish and be dive/bombed by a humming bird while sitting on the toilet.

- Kris

If you are  interested in visiting the Amazon via Laticia here are some guides and hotels to check out:

Heliconia - this is the company we stayed with.  They took care of every detail from airport pick-up to a guide, meals and lodging in their Eco-hotel.  I highly recommend them if you are in the adventurous spirit!
http://www.amazonheliconia.com/

Our guide has his own tour company with a home in Laticia he rents.  I would suggest him as a tour-guide as well.
tuirupu.blogspot.com


Our friends recommend their tour guide who is a native Ticuna. 
Anibal Aspajo Montes: 313-231-8678.


Another local tour company is:
 Pastor Orlando Rodriquez and his wife, Auri orlandorodriguez63@yahoo.com

Hacienda Bambusa

 Our last day in coffee country we decided to sleep in and enjoy the hotel.  Hacienda Bambusa is a lovely small hotel with gardens and a pool.  We enjoyed the day relaxing around the pool and hiking on the surrounding property.  We wandered through plantain stands, explored a ginger farm and investigated coca plants.  We ran into cows blocking our way and enjoyed stunning views.

Examining Ginger plants

A bundle of plantains

So although it is a bit out of the way, the quiet  and being in the country was a real treat.

The restaurant located at the hotel employed a local chef.  The food was excellent providing more of a dining experience which was very much enjoyed after a long day of touring.

Although we had our own driver and made our own touring arrangements, I have heard excellent reports from friends who have booked their touring through the hotel.

- Kris

E wondering how we get back

www.haciendabambusa.com

Salento

I awoke early on day two of our coffee adventure.  Somehow getting up at 5 every morning doesn’t change when on vacation.  A deep-throated buzzing pulled me out from under the covers and to the window.  Fascinated I watched around 20 humming birds fight for their breakfast.  Dodging this way and that they zoomed around the feeders and flowers below me.  

 No longer sleepy I grabbed my camera and headed out to explore the grounds of the hotel.  Beautiful and breathless, more on that later!

Salento was our destination for today.  After an hour long taxi ride we fell out of the car and onto mountain bikes.  The brakes were a bit sketchy so I traded mine for one with a bit more grip.  THANK GOODNESS!  Our trip was downhill on a gravel road until we turned around.  You can guess how the trip back-up went!  Fortunately being out in the countryside of Colombia gave me fuel for the pedal/push back up.  That and not wanting to be a 40 year old wimp!

We smelled the sweet scent of fresh baked bread wafting from this window.  Chad popped his head in and bought a loaf!

After our exhausting ride, we grabbed a loaf of “fresh out of the oven” bread and found a restaurant to collapse in.  We enjoyed fresh trout for which the area is famous before heading to the town square.

Upon seeing all the colorfully painted colonial buildings, restored antique Jeep Willys, vendors, shops and restaurants in the town square I realized this was a town that would need to be revisited in my future.

Reacting to a large, formerly alive, beetle on Chad's shoulder.

Nothing like hanging onto the back of a jeep feeling the freedom of the wind in your hair.

We hired a jeep and hopped in the back to enjoy the 30 min. ride up to the Valle de Cocora, a National reserve. 

The area is famous for Colombia’s national tree, the “wax palms”, the tallest palm trees in the world.  Tall, thin and  at 165 feet these trees make quite an impression standing solemnly in the Andes mountains.  We walked around for awhile before heading back to the jeep and anticipating a relaxed dinner back at the hotel.

• Kris

To rent bikes contact:

Hostal Plantation House

www.theplantationhousesalento.com

316-285-2603