The Russian Museum

Several people, Russian and American alike, commented that they preferred the Russian Museum over the Hermitage.  Considering that I was looking for inside activities while in St. Petersburg, this sounded like a good option.

The Mikhailovsky Palace was originally built in 1819-182117 by  Alexander I for his fourth son, Mikhail.  In 1898 Alexander III bought the palace and converted it into a public museum.  Sadly, most of the interior looks rather institutionalized with plain plaster walls covering what I would guess were ornate crumbling ones.  But when you go up the main staircase to the first floor exhibits, the interior has been beautifully restored.  Frescoed ceilings and gilded plasterwork took my attention away from the art.  I really have no idea what was displayed in those rooms because the setting was so beautiful.  

Over 300,000 items ranging from thirteenth century icons to textiles, to folk art are on display throughout the palace.  What I discovered here was that I love Russian art.  Russians are considered a non-expressive people, but in their art depth and feeling comes through.  Faces radiate joy, pain and sorrow.  Exquisite detail is depicted in costume and dress.  The embroidery  on peasant dresses and head scarves looked realistic.  Bold color made even the dreariest winter scene enticing.  Russia truly has her art masters.

The Marble Palace

St. Petersburg is a city that came to life during the dark days of winter.  Balls filled the city keeping spirits high during the long season.  To have a proper ball there must be proper ball rooms and in a city of palaces, there seems to be no lack for opulent interiors.  

  

Catherine the Great had this palace built for her favorite Count Grigory Orlov because he helped her ascend to the throne in 1762.  He responded to gifting her with one of the larges cut diamonds in the world (189.6 carats) which was later mounted in the royal scepter.  He died before the palace was completed in 1785 so she ended up giving it to her grandson.  

The exterior is quiet impressive with the smooth, pink marble giving it a royal feel.  

The Grand Marble Staircase and the Marble Hall are the only two areas that remain virtually untouched and unchanged since Catherine's day.  They are magnificent.   I love the soft blue walls contrasted with the white ornamental plasterwork as you ascend the green limestone staircase to the main floor.  The Marble Hall has a beautiful wood inlaid floor.  Patterns on the walls are created with 33 different types of marble that reach to the gilded ceiling.  Two huge crystal chandeliers grace the open space.  I can only imagine women in beautiful balls gowns floating and twirling through this room, warmed by the two fireplaces and flushed by the excitement of the gay evening.

Cathedral of the Resurrection

This amazing cathedral is one of St. Petersburg's main tourist attractions.  It was modeled after St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow with a bit different feel to the color and decoration.  Commonly known as Our Saviour on the Spilt Blood it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881.  In fact a small canopy chapel area was incorporated on the exact spot of his death.  

I spent an hour simply walking around the exterior of the cathedral with my camera in hand.  Built in a decorative pattern with red brick, small squares contain mosaic panels and majolica insets.  Nine onion domes reach towards the sky, four gilded and five covered by jewelry enamel.  Orthodox double crosses top each dome.  

I was not prepared for the ornate interior which took my breath away.  Not a single space was left unadorned with mosaic made from semi precious stones.  Scenes from the Bible along with geometric and floral patterns are composed of brilliant blues, oranges and golds.  I spent another hour inside just gazing up at the beauty.

This gaudy church is now tied with Sainte Chapelle in France as my favorite church.

Church of St. Panteleimon

Not particularly a tourist attraction, this church became a landmark for me each day confirming I was headed in the correct direction.  A plaque on the side of the building states that it was built in memory of Russian naval victories at Gangut and Grenham that were won on St. Panteleimon's Day.  It was built by Peter the Great in 1721 at the Particular Shipyard.

The simple red and white exterior captured my attention and a glimpse through the window drew me in.  I pushed the wooden door opened and was greeted with the echoing song of a choir.  Although only a recording, the music filled the room.  A service was going on so I stepped to a wall and watched quietly.  

Around 15-20 people stood in the room, men and women with their heads covered, young adult and elderly.  There were no chairs or pews, just an open space.  They did not stand in a row but each person seemed to have their personal space that was not to be invaded.  The air was heavy with the scent of incense floating out of the metal balls the priests would swing back and forth from time to time.  

There seemed to be an order to the service.  Choral music then the monotone song of the priest. The people would bow at the waist with stiff legs in unison.  A priest dressed in long robes would walk around with a gilded cross then the incense ball creating the sign of the cross with his movements.

Observing people worship gives me a glimpse into the society.  Who is there?  How many are there?  Are they sincere?  

Another reason I love stopping in churches and cathedrals is the architecture.  Even a simple church that is there only for the worship of the people can be amazing.  This church was painted in pastels of deep hues from floor to ceiling.  Arches met creating a vaulted ceiling.  Gold stars with simple lines filled the space.